Taste Test: IMAM FUSION
 BusinessDay Magazine, February 2005

For gourmet adventurers and restaurant partners Jimmy Concepcion and Butch Baliao, IMAM is more an acronym of four extraordinary cuisines than a reference of that archetypal holy man of prayers. By choosing India, the Mediterranean, Africa and Middle East and all their countries' countless foods and spices as their inspiration, Concepcion and Baliao have came up with a wide array of liberally spiced dishes that offers an immensely pleasurable dining experience.

This is exactly what Ziggurat is all about, located just off P. Burgos St. in Makati City. The restaurant - a modest commercial unit that includes an elevated corner patio - is a wonderful epicure's haven where one can never tire of the seductive food. Named after the pyramids of ancient Mesopotamia, the only thing reverent in Ziggurat is its chefs' holy respect for the exotic.

For two years now, Concepcion and Baliao have continued to collaborate, and in the process derived immense pleasure, in concocting dishes that they remember from their early days traveling extensively the many uncharted roads of predominantly Muslim countries. Enamored by the fragrant and alluring flavors of the regions' kitchens, the partners brought home to Ziggurat all their mouth-watering memories, which they now share with Metro Manila's gastronomes.

Concepcion was effusive as he led us to the dinign table, really a low wooden structure on top of an elevated stage covered by Persian carpets and generously strewn all around with rich intricately woven cushions. Of course, we had to remove our shoes. All around us were furniture accents, many of them, I am told, collections of the partners' travels abroad.

On cue, mezze or appetizers were served. I couldn't stop myself from dipping spoonfuls of the Afghan Chutney platter,a refreshingly cleansing concoction of hand-chopped cilantro, tomatoes, parsley, and onions with a hint of mint, garlic and some herbs.

Even the dollops of hummus, a paste of garbanzo beans and tahini, certainly deserved second and third servings. It was by far, in my view, the best tasting recipe for me of this Mediterranean and Middle Eastern staple dip. Was it the hand-pounded garbanzos or the special herbs mixed with ground sesame seeds? Whatever, it was simply fantastic with the cucumber and carrot sticks, the Indian Papadum flat bread, even the many different olives.

We could have gone on and on with the appetizers, but the allure and aroma of a platter full of grilled kebabas beckoned us to set the chutney and hummus aside, at least temporarily until we had our fill of that big overflowing platter of seasoned meats and vegetables. This part of the meal, I surmise, is where our kitchen warriors have their bit or culinary fun.

The special kebab platter comes in four sizes: personal (for one or two people), small (for two or four), medium (for up to seven) and large (for up to 10 persons). The arrangement is very handy because it encourages you to leave your gustatory fate to the discretion of these savvy culinary explorers and just concentrate on the eating.

Sampling the various meat, poultry, seafood, vegetables and fruits - marinated in the Middle Eastern spices and condiments, done either tikka (sliced) or Kufteh (ground patties), and cooked just the way it should be - allowed us to enjoy the flavors of such countries as Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan without being overpowered by biting tang and zest of spicier ingredients. Instead, our taste buds were opened to the sweetness of cumin and mint of North African kebabs, and the cinnamon and allspice that differentiated Turkey's grills.

Regulars at the restaurant reminded me not to forget to ask for Jimmy's Way, a kebab of tuna chunks beautifully seared on the outside but left medium raw on the inside, gently seasoned with citrus, coriander, slat and pepper to carouse the taste buds. I was not disappointed. Our host could not be stopped and prodded us to taste Ziggurat's version of Bosnian grilled cheese, slightly soaked in olive oil and spices. We could hardly move after devouring them.

For those who hanker for the zing of South Asian food, Ziggurat's menu also offers mixed curries on a platter. One can choose the fragrant yellow curry of India, or the red, black and white curries of Pakistan, or even the amber version of Sri Lanka - or a daring combination - on your choice of meats, poultry, sea foods, vegetables and even fruits. Don't forget to ask for Punjabi Watermelon Curry, chunks of sweet red
watermelon and crisp sugary cantaloupe cooked in a special concoction of curry blended with cumin and coriander. Truly an audacious dish!

When sweets were offered, we wanted to decline. But seeing golden honey and pistachio bits oozing from the layers of phylo pastry, it was easy to change our minds. In the end, not a crumb of the baklava was left on our plates. Finally, Arabian Passion tea liberally fused with rose essence brought the whole gastronomic experience to a pleasurable end.

Outside, as we frittered away the night with bits of politics and business talk, a few guests were placidly inhaling on a hookah. It was a soothing sight, truly a fitting end to a wonderful Arabian escapade.

Ziggurat offers a lot of adventure, and it takes repeated visits to uncover the cuisine of the great Muslim and Mediterranean worlds. When you're on Makati Ave., look for North park Tiananmen Bar. The restaurant is right behind, on the ground floor of Sunette Tower. Concepcion and Baliao have erected a corner signpost that says Tigris and Euphrates - two great rivers that spawned an equally great civilization.

For reservations, call (632) 897-5179.